- A luxury jewelry authenticator said there are several telltale signs of a fake Van Cleef & Arpels piece.
- The real deal is done with precision and quality, and fakers often miss the little details.
- Here’s what to watch out for, from thickness to shape.
This spoken essay is based on a conversation with Ng Yong Shen, vice president of Re-in love with luxurya luxury retailer based in Dubai. It has been edited for length and clarity.
I got into the luxury goods authentication business during the pandemic when I was hired as a buyer for a second-hand luxury goods company.
In that role, I was exposed to a large volume of luxury items on a daily basis. Bags, watches and jewelry are made my strong suits when it comes to authentication.
I continued to pursue similar roles, first as an authenticator for Carousell Group, an online marketplace similar to Craigslist, and later as a commercial manager at Luxehouze, a marketplace focused on pre-owned luxury goods.
Now, after four years in the industry, my day involves buying used parts from online markets or thrift stores, validating parts for corporate clients at noon, and then working as vice president of Re-Loved Luxury, trying to grow the business of her.
I also buy and trade luxury vintage pieces for my personal collection.
A question I get asked a lot as a proofreader is: How can I? Can I tell a real Van Cleef & Arpels piece from a fake?
For me, fakes are easy to spot. Recently, a friend asked me to watch a piece and all I had to do was look at the eye to show it was not authentic.
But to the untrained eye, I can see how it wouldn’t be that straightforward. So here are four things to look out for when checking whether the Van Cleef piece you’re interested in is genuine.
1. Shape of clover teeth
A close-up of the Van Cleef & Arpels clover pendant. By Yong Shen
The first thing to check is the shape of four legs.
The legs that make up the trefoil pattern of the Van Cleef & Arpels pieces are very distinctive and round, but the fake ones have a more elongated shape.
Fake ones often look almost teardrop-shaped, while an authentic piece has a more even and rounded profile.
2. Spheres surrounding the central stone
The spheres surrounding the central stone must be of equal size. By Yong Shen
Next, look at the small spheres that outline the clover stone.
If you look closely at fake ones, you can see that the spheres surrounding the stone are not very uniform.
Van Cleef & Arpels is a high-end jewelry brand, so the workmanship is premium. But with copies, counterfeiters often work faster and can save on these small details.
Spheres are often either too large or too small in counterfeits. While in the real ones, you can see they are very beautiful, and very easy on the eyes.
3. Hallmark on the dance ring
A scratch on the jump ring is an identifying factor of a genuine Van Cleef & Arpels piece. By Yong Shen
An important telltale sign is the clasp. You can open and close the clasp and then attach it to the jump ring.
Take a close look at the jump ring. There is a small scratch on it. If you turn it over and look under the loop, you will find that the scratch on an authentic piece has a very small hallmark printed on it.
Upon closer inspection, you’ll see that the dance ring is embossed with an eagle’s head, the French hallmark for 18-karat gold jewelry.
This is a detail that many counterfeiters tend to miss.
4. Suitability of side profile
The side profile of a Van Cleef & Arpels piece should look neat and tidy. By Yong Shen
Finally, turn the piece over to examine its side profile. The rounded area on a fake bracelet is often more jagged compared to the real one, which is much sharper and sharper.
There is also a certain thickness to the center stone itself. You’ll notice that fake ones are often thin, which can be another dead giveaway.